Putting a car away properly takes about the same amount of effort whether you do it right or do it carelessly — the difference is almost entirely in knowing what to check. This is a working checklist for storing a performance or collector car for an extended period, from a few weeks to a full season or longer.
Before the car goes into storage
Wash and dry the car fully, including the underside if possible — anything left on the paint or in wheel wells has weeks or months to etch in rather than being cleaned off within a day or two. Top up fluids and, for storage longer than a couple of months, consider a fuel stabiliser if the tank will sit mostly full for an extended period. Inflate tyres to the upper end of the manufacturer's recommended range — under-inflated tyres flat-spot faster, since there's less air pressure resisting the compound's deformation under load.
Tyres — the highest-leverage step
This is the step most owners skip, and it's the one with the most long-term consequence. A tyre resting on a flat garage floor for an extended period concentrates the vehicle's full weight onto a small, static contact patch — the leading cause of flat-spotting in stored vehicles. Moving the car onto tyre cushions before it sits for any real length of time spreads that same weight across roughly 400% more surface area, which is the difference between a tyre under continuous point-load stress and one that's evenly cradled. Match the cushion set to your vehicle's actual kerb weight — Super up to 2,000kg, Magna up to 2,750kg, or Leader up to 4,000kg for heavier classics and SUVs.
Battery
Don't just disconnect and hope. A battery left completely idle for months, especially through a hot summer, often needs replacing by the time the car comes back out. A smart charger or maintainer that trickle-charges as needed keeps the battery in the same condition it went in, and is a small investment relative to a replacement battery or the inconvenience of a dead one.
Body and paint
If the car is stored outdoors or in a space without full climate control, a breathable, well-fitted cover matters more than most owners assume — it protects against UV fade, dust, and moisture without trapping heat and humidity against the paint the way a sealed cover would. For bespoke or high-value vehicles, a cover made to the car's exact silhouette avoids the rubbing and micro-abrasion a generic cover can cause over months of contact.
Cabin
Crack a window very slightly if security allows, or use a moisture absorber inside the cabin — this prevents the musty smell and condensation risk that comes from a fully sealed interior over an extended period, especially in humid climates.
Environment
Indoor, shaded, and temperature-stable is the ideal. If that's not available, prioritise shade and a breathable cover over nothing at all — direct sun exposure for months does more visible and cumulative damage than almost any other single factor.
When the car comes back out
Check tyre pressure and inspect for any flat-spotting before driving normally — a brief low-speed drive will usually resolve minor temporary flat spots within 10–15 minutes. Reconnect and test the battery if it was disconnected rather than maintained. Give the car a proper wash before any extended drive, since dust and residue that settled during storage can otherwise scratch the paint as you wipe it down.
The takeaway
None of these steps are individually complicated, but skipping the tyre step — resting a stored car's weight on a flat floor instead of a contoured cushion — is the single most common and most consequential mistake in long-term car storage. Get that one right and most of the rest is straightforward maintenance.